Just to the east of Nice, in the commune of Villefranche-sur-Mer, the bustle of the metropolis dissolves into a relaxed village atmosphere and the soft pebbles on the beach crumble into fine gravel. Many boats are docked here, where the bay is among the deepest along the Mediterranean; where the water is shallower, sunbathers tan and swimmers frolic. Farther inland, narrow streets lined with small but good restaurants wind away from the sea and toward sunbaked buildings tucked into the sides of hills.
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